Forum Replies Created
Shaun, sorry I can’t help with the NOS or OEM bit. Assume you want stock look? I did – so I took the originals to a brakes shop and they made newies with Stainless banjos. Look great, don’t corrode and work good too.
Hi Greg, Some years back for mine, Chris Lineham in Melbourne rebuild my D exhausts. I haven’t contacted him for a while now, so not sure if he still does this stuff or not. he had all the jigs to set them up. Mine fitted perfectly after they were totally rebuilt and are still going strong. Try pinging an email to him and see what you get. email@example.com
Hi John, Have a look at CSML or David Silver in UK. Most of my stuff came from these guys. I think I have my old one still if you’re stuck.
Finally bit the bullet and put two new Bridgestone hoops on the R. I looked at the old Dunlops when I started the rebuild in early 2011 and thought they will do. Got it on the road in mid 2014 and thought they will still do. Now mid 2017 I realised how old and crappy they were (actually cracky is a better description). It should feel a little more secure during corners I think.
Thanks for that info on the Motobatt Keith. I have the OEM starter clutch fitted, but have a R6 conversion (from Cary Shufelt? – 1100F site) on standby.
Thanks Andy. There’s that dirty word again – effort. I might keep an eye out for a box and look at it a a little project down the track.
Yes, I’ve normally had a good run with AGM batteries too, the original in my CBX was 8 or 9 years old when it was replaced.
Anyhow, I went to the shop yesterday with the battery and my receipt and had a chat to them about it. I discovered (before I went to the shop) from the date stamp on the base of the battery that it was 2.5 years old when I bought it! Now it is 6 years old, it was probably getting close to expiring anyway. So they were sympathetic to my evidence they did a deal on a Motobatt at trade price (about half that of the Deka), so I’m happy for now. Going for a ride today.
Those troublesome bolts are usually sorted by a) leaving the spring in to start as noted by Keith and b) I find a drift the same diameter as the bolt head and give it one or two sharp hits to break the seal if you like. Carefully select the drift so it won’t damage the socket head , making it difficult to get the key in.
OK thanks Andy. I sort of thought they may reveal some hot tips for (well racing I suppose) road use or stuff. Oh well.
Well at the end of the day, it is only the assembly instructions. Us blokes throw them away, right?
I didn’t know these existed! Might be useful info somewhat!! What is a D one worth anyhow? Don’t suppose anyone has a – a- err- cough – cough – copy?
Thanks for that Glenn. I did overhaul the starter on the rebuild, I’ll have to check if the brushes were OEM or pattern, I think OEM. I have a bit of a maintenance plan coming up (once the CBX is sorted) so I’ll go through all the connections and possibly extract the starter and check it over. As an aside, giving the CBX a birthday I tossed up whether to do the starter as it was working fine, spinning the 6 no problem at all. Anyway decided to do it and holy cr*p – the oil seal had been leaking, the starter was full of black oily carbony sludge – how was it working at all??
Thanks all. Hi Glenn. When I finish my rides I turn the fuel off a couple of streets from home to try and empty the carbs a bit. For startup, I turn the fuel on while I get it out of the shed and around to the front of the house etc etc. Last ride, I did all that, wheeled it around to the front of house, got all my gear ready, blah blah, hit the starter and the battery only lasted a few revs before it died. The language was not pretty as the missus and probably a few neighbors can verify. Push it UP my driveway and UP the street (we are at the bottom of course) and fortunately an easy roll start. GRRRR.
Anyway, I’ve ordered a set of the Procom units, mainly as insurance spares for now. I have CBR coils on already.
OK, a few things here. My RD suffers from all of the above (or below) but I usually get two or three cylinders after it has had a longish rest. (weeks) If the battery is in tip top condition it usually isn’t a problem, so I may need to tweak some of the wiring / connectors to stop some volt drop around the system.
Can somebody advise please, the Procomm units on that link are 60 quid, is that each or the set of two as the picture shows? I note he doesn’t ship to Oz, but just curious at this point.
Also JohnM, maybe we could catch up and swap war stories, I’m near Jandakot so only a short blast to Mandurah.
Oh man – I feel your pain. I hate that when you are convinced someone else can do it better and then something like that happens.
Keith, as I noted I ended up breaking mine to get them out. When it comes to it, the getting back in is easy, so you’d think the getting out wouldn’t be too hard. I have seen a description of someone doing it, may have been on the 1100F site. I think if you had a sucker thing to hold the glass it would allow you to pull back on the shell and ease them apart easily (more easier?). Without it you get something thin (I used feeler gauges) in behind the mirror surround (carefully) and work around. Trouble is it pops back in pretty quick and any effort to work one side makes the other side wedge in tighter. The call to break it wasn’t too hard as the glass was crap anyway. I did find the OEM glass had tape over the back – maybe to stop shattering in a prang. The glass is 3mm thick and the local glazier had no trouble cutting me two. They are both the same, just mirror images (boom boom).
Before is pretty low quality, I can do afters. Didn’t even think to get good before shots. The previous owner had dropped it at some point resulting in some dents and heavy scratching to (mainly) one mirror. So he got them roughened up and filled the dents with bog and then painted them white. They looked pretty crappy. The only photo I have is a low quality shot which just shows err, white mirrors. When I removed the paint I found the bog and scratched chrome – an ugly scene. A classic vehicle restorer was recommended to me by the chroming place as they work a lot together on various chrome trim restorations. When I picked up the repaired and chromed shells, I couldn’t believe it. The only things missing were the plastic bags and the little bits of paper with the magical -MA3- numbers. I couldn’t see any marks, the stamped numbers are still visible on the shells (so it hasn’t got 1/2″ of chrome over it). I must learn to take more photos. Apart from the IoM, I have quite a few of that place!!