Fork rebuild

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  • #9378
    AndyL
    Member

    Quick post to garner a poll of what fork oil people use? 5? 10? Or mix both for a 7.5?

    And the manual recommends 350 cm3 – just being absolutely sure, not that I don’t believe Mr Honda.

    And what PSI do you run with or do you run without air assistance?

    Thanks in advance

    Andy

    #10714
    Carl Roberts
    Participant

    I’ve got 10w in mine … I set the sag using aluminium pipe and have not put any air in … Setting the sag made a huge improvement .. the damping is still pants .. but it’s loads better …

    #10716
    SteveB
    Member

    Carl,
    i am planning to “do” my forks soon as i can, but i havent got a manual yet, mine is a “RD”
    how do i get the fork tops off
    can i drain the oil without taking the forks off and tipping them upside down
    what should the sag be set at for road use
    how long is your preload spacer ( ally tube )
    thanks
    steve

    #10727
    Carl Roberts
    Participant

    Hi Steve .. I’ve not had a good look at rd forks .. but had a look at the fiche … Couldn’t see a drain plug on the bottom .. so you may well have to take them out .. could be a good time to put new bushes and seals in … As for the preload .. I used 25mm diameter pipe .. it it’s 2.5mm thick wall … I need a 65mm spacer the get it how I wanted … Which was 30mm of sag with me sat on the bike with my gear on . Hope that helps

    #10732
    BrianC
    Participant

    The ‘tops’, by that I’m assuming you mean the rebound adjustment dials, they come off pretty easily. Lever CAREFULLY underneath evenly and they’re off. Under that is the plate that connects through to the mechanism, that can all stay on. A normal socket can get the cap bolts off. (21 / 22/ 23 / 24 mm? can’t remember at the minute).
    There is a small drain hidden down the bottom of the fork, it is the 10mm head cap bolt. Don’t take out the philips head screw, there is a spring and ball under for the damping adjuster.
    You will need to flush new oil through a few times as the passages are a bit convoluted in the anti dive circuitry.

    #10734
    SteveB
    Member

    @BrianC 1232 wrote:

    The ‘tops’, by that I’m assuming you mean the rebound adjustment dials, they come off pretty easily. Lever CAREFULLY underneath evenly and they’re off. Under that is the plate that connects through to the mechanism, that can all stay on. A normal socket can get the cap bolts off. (21 / 22/ 23 / 24 mm? can’t remember at the minute).
    There is a small drain hidden down the bottom of the fork, it is the 10mm head cap bolt. Don’t take out the philips head screw, there is a spring and ball under for the damping adjuster.
    You will need to flush new oil through a few times as the passages are a bit convoluted in the anti dive circuitry.

    As for the preload .. I used 25mm diameter pipe .. it it’s 2.5mm thick wall … I need a 65mm spacer the get it how I wanted … Which was 30mm of sag with me sat on the bike with my gear on .
    Thanks Brian and Carl, thats exactly what i needed to know
    steve

    #10738
    BrianC
    Participant

    Oh, – and(forgot to mention) make sure the marks on the fork top caps line up with the dots on the top fork bridge. This ensures that the dials all end up aligned so 1-2-3 are in the same orientation. My RD manual doesn’t go into that, coz it’s actually an RC book. The after market 900 / 1100 manual has the procedure in it.

    #10739
    AndyL
    Member

    Regarding Brian’s post re the channels in the anti-dive, I have stripped my down to the very component parts and you would not believe the amount of grime and crud that I got out of them. Its fascinating to see how much goes into the making of those bits that make up the TRAC system… although I still don’t know if it was worth the effort.

    #10756
    PaulA
    Member

    hi Carl
    please dont come with half a story,how did you know how much sag you needed,how did you measure it,how did you arrive at 65mm spacer length,pardon my obvious ignorance but spill the beans yessir

    #10760
    SteveG
    Member

    Your SAG is in need of a bit of sortin is it Paul ;););)

    #10843
    Carl Roberts
    Participant

    30mm is a ball park figure that most sports bikes want to be set at .. you can fine tune it after .. but it’s a good starting point … First raise the front of the bike so the forks are fully extended .. take a measurement from say the top of the fork to the bottom yoke .. next put all your riding gear on .. then sit on the bike with your feet on the pegs .. you’ll need some help to to hold the bike level .. and take the fork measurement again .. the amount the forks have moved is your sag .. so if it’s moved 50mm you’ll need a 20mm spacer … I’m not sure how thick [diameter?] the spacer needs to be as RB forks are thinner than RC/RD forks . ..
    Hope that helps

    #10927
    1100rAdmin
    Member

    Hope you don’t mind Carl but I edited your post to remove the typos to make it easier to read. :)

    Guessed you posted from a mobile !

    #10938
    Carl Roberts
    Participant

    Cheers dude .. pain in the ass doing it off mobile sometimes

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