Keith G new RC rebuild thread

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  • #12806
    Glenn Kirkham
    Keymaster

    Cheers.. Just bought one… :)

    #12807
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Used my one today again Glenn

    This is a bit out of sequence with my thread but I thought i would post it as we are talking extractors

    One thing i always like to do when overhauling a Head is to remove the exhaust Studs

    Anyone who has ever broken one in place will tell you it is a very difficult if not impossible task to remove the offending one with the engine in place

    Usually the double nut trick works to unscrew them, if that fails its the mole grips

    I had one which i had to use the extractor on..luckily it was one i could get to

    When they are all out i run a Tap down them to clean the threads out (M8 X 1.25), I will then fit new studs with copper slip on

    [IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1616&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1617&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1618&stc=1[/IMG]

    #12808
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    When i split the crankcases all looked very good and clean inside..that was until I looked at the primary chain guide..almost looked like it had melted at the end.. I have stripped maybe 20 CB750/900/1100 Engines and have never seen this before

    Looking at it I think maybe it was a faulty molding from new which has shrunk in service

    Was wondering where I would source one for a R Engine until i looked at my R parts list. and did a cross reference on the part number..this part was used on the 750/900/1100 engines..which was good news as i have a few from 750/900 Engines I have stripped

    Seems strange Honda produced a wider Hydraulic Primary chain tensioner but did not make a wider guide

    Plan for the rebuild is New Cam chains, new Engine Seals and Valve guide seals, new primary shaft damper rubbers, Piston rings and Crank Bearings

    (photo 3 shows a 900 part along side the 1100R part)

    [IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1619&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1620&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1621&stc=1[/IMG]

    #12809
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Are you planning on fitting any of Brent Hyde’s parts or modifications Keith? I am sure you are aware of him but for those that aren’t, Brent is a leading authority on these engines and can make them produce substantially increased horse power and reliability if using them hard (though I doubt many of us current owners are pushing the current performance envelope very often these days).
    He has upgraded tensioners, including an upgraded primary chain tensioner and stronger timing chains available for sale.
    There is also an upgrade available for the oil pick up screen and clutch rubber replacement that are well proven and fitted to many of the DOHC series engines nowadays.
    Details of these and several other mods are available on the CB1100F.net site.

    #12810
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Hi Andy
    Yes I am fitting some of Brent’s Camchain tensioners in this Engine,have them in my other RC and one of my CB1100F’s, I make my own modified oil pickup screens and drill the primary chain oiler mod to give the cam chain extra oil.
    I met Brent Hyde at Spa last year when I made the trip with the R club
    I am not doing any performance mods just a few reliability mods,they are quick enough already for most of us
    Have also fitted Wouts cluch basket rubbers to a couple of my bikes,and have been a member of cb1100f.net for many years

    I will post these upgrades/mods as I go along to give other members a few tips

    Keith

    #12811
    JohnS
    Member

    Great Thread Keith. We are all watching intently, with total respect at your skill and knowledge.

    Pics are great!

    JohnS

    #12813
    Glenn Kirkham
    Keymaster

    Yes I agree Keith – good thread and please keep the great pictures coming – worth a thousand words (as they say ;))

    #12815
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    After i had stripped the engine down i turned my attention to getting the frame and swinging arm etc ready for powdercoating

    I noticed the swinging arm had a couple of rusty looking blisters on it, i then poked them with a screwdriver and opened some large holes up

    Obviously this was scrap so after a couple of emails I found a very nice one in Holland,,thanks Wim

    As this bike has not been used since the early 1990’s I can only think it had been used through a few bad English winters before being parked up,Older members in the UK will remember how badly Cars used to rust in the 1960/70’s

    [IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1624&stc=1[/IMG]

    #12816
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I also have decided to get all the bodywork repainted, the Tank was not too bad but the seat unit has a few cracks in the usual places and the lower fairing was in need of a bit of fibreglass repair

    The first parts to come back were the front mudguard and the fork parts, are now nice and shiny Red with a clearcoat on them

    [IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1627&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1628&stc=1[/IMG]

    #12817
    Glenn Kirkham
    Keymaster

    Coming along nicely Keith…

    #12842
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    In the last few weeks i have turned my attention to the engine, I glass bead blasted the head, cylinder and crankcases to remove the old paint prior to repainting

    When you have blasted them it is very important the thoroughly clean all oil ways with compressed air as a small amount of blast media can cause great damage in a new engine

    On the top crankcase you need to remove the blanking plug thats behind the generator rotor with a 14mm Allen key, you can then get a long 8mm rod and drive the blanking plug from the other side

    One thing that can be overlooked on the lower crankcase is the small metering jet which feeds the oil to the primary shaft, this can be easily removed with a 7mm tap, [IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1634&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1635&stc=1[/IMG]

    #12843
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Another area that needs cleaning is the crankshaft oil ways, when you look there are 4 ball bearings that are used to plug the oilway drillings

    I use a small stone in a dremel to grind them out, as the are around 6mm diameter i find if you grind about 3mm down you can then tap one side of the bearing which will spin it in the hole you can then hook it out

    When i have throughly cleaned all the oil ways i then drill and tap the holes M8 and loctite a M8 X 10mm long grub screw[IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1636&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1637&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1638&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1639&stc=1[/IMG]

    #12844
    Glenn Kirkham
    Keymaster

    Great information & Pics Keith..

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