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October 19, 2011 at 8:21 pm #9257AndyLMember
Ok, I am making good progress on getting engine number one replacement parts together (crank – thanks Gary W, rods from the US and primary shaft from breaker) but I think i am verging on idiocy with the next stage.
I thought I had removed all retaining nuts and bolts from the crankcases but they absolutely refuse to separate. Am i missing something? Is there a small hidden nut that I have overlooked? Any thoughts?
And secondly, what advice do any of you have for separating a block (second engine) that is refusing to budge to any heat or soaking? I don’t know if this engine has ever been apart, the breaker I got it from years ago thought it was an ex-racer that had been totalled on the track and was broken up in the same year. So we are up against crud and fused rust and metal.
Any thoughts on what to do or anyone know a company that takes on that sort of work? Any techniques that have worked for any of you?
Thanks in advance
AndyOctober 25, 2011 at 12:17 pm #10038AndyLMember
Any thoughts anyone?October 25, 2011 at 12:37 pm #10040GeoffHMember
Hi Andy welcome to the club! i to have a set of barrels that wont budge. Spoke to Andre about it but it seems to be a common prob. and no easy solutions. Sorry.
Geoff.October 27, 2011 at 2:30 pm #10053DickHMember
I remember my overhauler having this problem back in the early 90’s – he said that he used a frightful amount of heat to loosen the,…!!! Here’s some old newsletter gen:
This was Chris Ward in May 1998:
With the engine out, the first order of business was to remove the cylinder head (this is where the trouble started). All but two of the nuts came undone with out problems, these two were soaked in WD40 for two days, but still would not budge. More force was used which sheared the studs off about 2 inches from the base of the barrels. This would not have been a problem had the barrels not seized on to the two sheared . studs. We had to set the engine up on a pillar drill. Using a flat bottom drill to cut away the top of the studs until the barrels came away.
Andre in November 2000:
Don’t fear the stuck barrels! No need for another set. There are plenty of options.
It is obviously caused by the studs sticking to the barrels – so remove all the studs!
Penetration oils like WD40 don’t penetrate deep and fast enough (I’m talking about penetration OILS) to overcome that problem.
If you’re not in a rush spray WD40 on all studs you couldn’t remove (usually the ones between cylinders 1 and 2 or 3 and 4) regularly until the barrels or studs can be removed. This can take a few months!
However there are cruder techniques!!
On my RC engine the inlet side stud between 3 and 4 was the culprit. I also tried penetrating oil and heat but to no avail. I gave up and handed the barrels/engine case over to someone who had some experience with VW Beetle engines and who also had access to a huge collection of tools.
One of the options I was thinking about was welding a huge nut onto the stud and remove it with a huge wrench. He took a similar but different route. He clamped the stud into a vice and rotated the engine (actually the upper case and barrels) so that the stud then came loose.
I guess that if you have an un-mounted engineering vice then you could leave the motor on the bench and rotate the vice.
Needless to say the stud was ready for the bin but after that stud came loose separation of barrels and case was very easy.
Apparently the WD40 (and application of heat) only worked itself through the upper few cm’s of the stud whereas the alu-oxide that caused the sticking was at the bottom of the barrels.
I’ve heard of even more crude options: drilling out the stud, removing some barrel materials and cut through the stud but both are more aggressive to the engine parts.January 1, 2012 at 6:35 pm #10097AnonymousInactive
this a common problem with these engines…..spcially if the bike gets used in the rain…..as said above…..but if that fails and you snap a stud off it’s a job for a machine shop….get them to drill the rest of the stud out…
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