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Having not used my RB for a couple of months I was alarmed that she refused to run on all four cylinders. New plugs (D8EV – thanks for the recommendation Keith) and a clean up of the spark unit contacts and it was back to normal service!
I also discovered that my bike was suffering from the “melting potting compound” issue with both spark units. They still work fine, but my web searches don’t really come up with a cause – just that it’s a common problem with these units (used widely on Hondas of this vintage). Cleaning up the contacts on the connector block was the best advice I found. Anyone have a better understanding/solution? Thanks
Hi Howard – yes it’s a known issue on the RB’s – Some folk have scraped the crap potting compound out and had them repotted as a good fix. I had a pair of spare RC units that I swapped them out for.
Cheers..Hi Howard
Yes a common problem on the Honda spark units, the early ones with the Black sleeving seem to melt where the later ones with the Red sleeving never melt
There are more modern ones now available, Procom ones from the USA,You can buy them here from M&P (see link below) these have more modern electrionics in them which work faster and produce a better spark, also a coil upgrade help greatly, you can buy Dyna Green 3.0 ohm Coils or go for the much cheaper CBR 600/900 option
All my bikes now have Dyna or CBR Coils and all start well, not noticed any difference in performance between the 2
Keith
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Procom-Electrosport-Igniter-Set-Honda-CB-650-1100-CX500-650-GL1100-PE-C-MH900-A-/141833311388?
hash=item2105ec949c:g:Ro4AAOSwLzdWT1xbExcellent advice! Think I’ll get a couple of the modern spark units as I have these units on “all” my Hondas! (CBX1000, GL1100, HB2 (CB900), CX650T, CB1100R)
My RD has the same problem, started her up after a couple of month’s and she would only run on one cylinder, using NGK D9EA with standard coils. I cleaned the connectors on the spark units and the plugs and would still fire on olny one cylinder, I put in new plugs and everything is running good now. The spark units have the red sleeve, this has happened about 4 times since I got the bike in June 2015. Is there something else I need to do, all advice welcome.
JohnMOK, a few things here. My RD suffers from all of the above (or below) but I usually get two or three cylinders after it has had a longish rest. (weeks) If the battery is in tip top condition it usually isn’t a problem, so I may need to tweak some of the wiring / connectors to stop some volt drop around the system.
Can somebody advise please, the Procomm units on that link are 60 quid, is that each or the set of two as the picture shows? I note he doesn’t ship to Oz, but just curious at this point.
Also JohnM, maybe we could catch up and swap war stories, I’m near Jandakot so only a short blast to Mandurah.
Thanks.John, Both my bikes are doing exactly the same lately as well. The RC Im working on at the moment has great compression, but hard starting (so its not starting on all 4 cyl) and out on the road runs rough. After testing the coils, both were outside servicable limits. Ive just recieved the Procom igniters today and fitted them this afternoon. Still waiting on new CBR 600 coils. (whole upgrade $200)
I like to see a fat blue spark but all I was seeing was an orange spark from a black plug. Hopefully this upgrade will fix the problem. My suggestion John is test your coils, In your case the indication that its one cylinder would mean coil/lead or plug is the problem. One really quick test of your coil/leads is measure resistance between plugcap 1 and plugcap 4 then 2 and 3. should be about 23k ohms each.JohnS
Hi Brian
The procom in the link are for a pair, i asked them that question when they first advertised them..M&P are a large company who have been trading for a few decades, just email them and ask if they will post to Perth
I have been using NGK D8EV plugs in my R’s for a few months now, greatly improved starting and running,although both my R’s have 3.0 ohm Dyna coils fitted, my CB1100F’s have CBR600 coils and they start and run well and are a good cheap upgrade from ebay
Keith
@BrianC 3817 wrote:
OK, a few things here. My RD suffers from all of the above (or below) but I usually get two or three cylinders after it has had a longish rest. (weeks) If the battery is in tip top condition it usually isn’t a problem, so I may need to tweak some of the wiring / connectors to stop some volt drop around the system.
Can somebody advise please, the Procomm units on that link are 60 quid, is that each or the set of two as the picture shows? I note he doesn’t ship to Oz, but just curious at this point.
Also JohnM, maybe we could catch up and swap war stories, I’m near Jandakot so only a short blast to Mandurah.
Thanks.Hi all – I know I’ve probably said this before but After a bike’s been stood a while then the gas in the carb’s does evaporate – these bikes do have big carbs that take a bit of filling from scratch.
I’ve had my RB for over 20 years now and it always starts first or second prod on all cylinders (even after being stood idle for over 6 months) when I follow my usual start up routine.
1) Turn on the gas tap
2) go have a coffee or put on my bike gear for 10 minutes
3) 1/2 to 3/4 choke
4) hit the starter
5) blip throttle and smile with satisfaction.My own theory is that trying to start the bike with carbs that are not full coats the plugs and stresses any electrical weaknesses that might exist..
Works for me anyhow..
Thanks all. Hi Glenn. When I finish my rides I turn the fuel off a couple of streets from home to try and empty the carbs a bit. For startup, I turn the fuel on while I get it out of the shed and around to the front of the house etc etc. Last ride, I did all that, wheeled it around to the front of house, got all my gear ready, blah blah, hit the starter and the battery only lasted a few revs before it died. The language was not pretty as the missus and probably a few neighbors can verify. Push it UP my driveway and UP the street (we are at the bottom of course) and fortunately an easy roll start. GRRRR.
Anyway, I’ve ordered a set of the Procom units, mainly as insurance spares for now. I have CBR coils on already.Hi Brian, another line worth looking at is the starter motor… for years my RB struggled to turn the motor over even with a full and tested battery as if it could bareley turn the engine over at all.. checked all the connections and leads as well so they were good.
Finally I stripped out the starter motor and yes the brushes were well within tolerance.
Then someone suggested that I fitted a new set of OEM brushes and OMG the difference – like a different bike and the motor really spun the motor over a lot faster.
Never had a starting issue since – am I just lucky…?I have had the same problem Glenn, in tolerance brushes with hot start, slow turning starter motor problems, new brushes fixed it
Thanks for that Glenn. I did overhaul the starter on the rebuild, I’ll have to check if the brushes were OEM or pattern, I think OEM. I have a bit of a maintenance plan coming up (once the CBX is sorted) so I’ll go through all the connections and possibly extract the starter and check it over. As an aside, giving the CBX a birthday I tossed up whether to do the starter as it was working fine, spinning the 6 no problem at all. Anyway decided to do it and holy cr*p – the oil seal had been leaking, the starter was full of black oily carbony sludge – how was it working at all??
I’ve had starter issues for a while and bought a spare starter motor as everyone at the time was saying it would go; It didn’t, but the starter clutch did. If you need a replacement starter motor I’ve got one. An easy fix.
G
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