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What is the advantage of this ? thanks Steveb
http://www.cb750c.com/publicdocs/V&H/150404_V&H_CamChain_Tensioner_Inst_Guide_v1.0.pdfGood to keep posting the pics Brett..
What magic did you use to remover the barrels from the rusted stud then..?
To answer the questions posed here:
Andy, the main reason I prefer raw alloy cases is just ease of maintenance.
While I also prefer the aesthetics of alloy (real metal look rather than ‘plastic’ look of black paint) the raw castings allow you to readily detect the weeps, seeps and leaks that occur over time.
That also includes things like leaky exhaust gaskets, and so I can get on to fixing these types of issues quicker.
The raw alloy also requires no real maintenance, whereas paint chips, marks and especially at the front of the motor gets blasted by tyre grit etc and looks shabby pretty quick.
This 1100R motor was an abortion of multiple patch up attempts at fixing the paint.
But I must stress I am talking about Hydrablasted alloy castings, where the hydrablasting process peens the alloy surface in a way that somehow minimises corrosion?
I live near the beach, and with the mountainous surf we have had this week, you are often riding around in a ‘fog’ of salt spray.
10 years ago I did a CB750 the same way, and the alloy is still in the same condition as when it was done.
Steve, the Hyde Racing guide and tensioner just work well, and are ‘set & forget’ after the initial check.
2 years ago I put them in a CB900F2B and it has been fantastic.
In that case, as well as this 1100R, the main tensioner was shagged, so replacement was required in both instances.
My bikes are every day riders, not racers breaking 10,000 rpm (which is what this guide /tensioner system was designed for) but Brent Hydes system is quicker, and more cost effective to procure than the stock system.
Here is a shot of the guide as installed this morning.[IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1726&stc=1[/IMG]
Glenn, to be honest I think I just got lucky on the cylinder head!
I filled the 4 affected stud holes with WD40, and let them soak for about 3 nights, topping up as required.
Then using a block of wood, started tapping the front of the cylinder vertically at the tunnel protrusion, and did some careful prying (with timber protecting pieces) on the rear lower tensioner bolt boss, and the ‘1062 cc’ boss.
Luckily, it gradually rose off the crankcases, but still took a good half hour of wiggling and freeing to get off!Thanks Brett – great pics, keep them coming..
Steve, the main advantage of the V&H tensioner is that you can get them… the original tensioners often stick and/or get shagged and they are no longer available from Honda..
Now I’m off to get a new front tyre for the RB..
Not really going to trust the existing one after my ‘wee tumble’ in Norway – just worked out that it’s probably 10- 12 years old…:rolleyes: …!!Cheers.. Glenn
Where can I get one of these tensioners ? Do they come from New Zealand or is there somewhere more local ?
thanksI have sent you Brents contact details Steve, they come from New Zealand
When Brent started racing these engines many years ago he suffered many camchain failures, he worked out that the flat front guide was the cause as the chain was not supported and it was to do with the harmonics shaking the chain apart
So he developed a curved front guide which along with the curved rear tensioner that gives the cam chain excellent support and his race engine is now revved to 11700 rpm now with no chain failures
I have fitted a couple of these to my engines now with good results
Keith
Last night I discovered the worst part of restoring an ‘R’!!
Trying to shoehorn the motor back in the frame?
Endless amounts of rubber, tape and cloth to protect fresh shiny paint – all failed as I fiddled about trying to get the bloody motor in!
But I finally got it there after a few expletives.[IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1727&stc=1[/IMG]
Brettp
Another photo due to image loading issues?
[IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1728&stc=1[/IMG]
Brettp
Greg,
You are welcome to drop by anytime!
Plenty of beers in the fridge for a good shed session, although with the cold at the moment – coffee might be more appropriate?
We were in Dural for the Hills Ulysses bike show on Sunday, which had a pretty good turn out of classics, so we flew the flag for the Japanese in a sea of Harleys and Indians!
BrettGreg,
Funny you should mention progress on the build!
I finally got the ‘R’ back on the road on Monday (not painted yet, but riding it) – and have been sorting issues ever since.
The major irritation is the new counter shaft oil seal leaking.
The previous seal was completely torn apart, and when dismantling the transmission, I noticed two small ‘nicks’ on the countershaft collar to which this seal is supposed to ‘seal’?
So I spent some time with a small oil stone, smoothing things out on the collar as much as possible to minimise the chance of a leak.
The problem may be these small ‘nicks’, or maybe my new seal is a bit old and hard, but whatever, it annoys me.
So I took the lower fairing back off, and have been trying a few strategies to fix it without having to split the cases again.
I also discussed this issue with Wout, to see how common it is, and what suggestions he might have.
He was a fantastic help, and so I am working through a few different solutions?
After every attempt, I take the bike out for another test run, and this has highlighted another interesting issue – how much cooler the bike runs without the lower fairing in place!
This afternoon is pretty warm at about 31 degC, and of course I got hammered in a traffic snarl on Mona Vale Rd through St Ives, and spent quite a bit of time idling while going nowhere.
But I reckon the oil temp gauge ran about 20 degC cooler than it did on Monday afternoon when I had a similar experience on a cooler day, but with the lower fairing fitted!
Interesting, and for at least summer, am now considering ditching the lower fairing?
Here is a shot from test ride 2 to Kangaroo Point.[IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1730&stc=1[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1731&stc=1[/IMG]
The leak is now less, but still not what I called ‘fixed’, so the work continues.
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